My late model Ford overdrive transmission shudders at about 45 mph.

This is a very common problem with some of the late model Ford overdrive transmissions.  The source of the problem lies in the torque converter clutch that chatters as it engages causing a vibration to be felt.

While this would seem to be a major warning sign of failing transmission, this will usually be cured by servicing the transmission (changing the fluid).  At this facility, we will also add an additive called Lubegard (black label) which has helped.

If the symptoms persist, follow the recommendations of you local transmission facility.  The most important thing is not to delay having the service performed.  The longer the unit exhibits the symptom, the more on a chance that damage will occur.

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My GM transmission doesn’t have a dipstick to check the level.

Technical Bulletin #325
4T40-E
Fluid Level

 

 

Inspecting the fluid level on a 4T40-E is similar to inspecting the fluid level on a manual transmission. It uses a fill plug (oil level control plug) rather than a fill-tube and dip stick. To inspect the fluid level, follow the procedure below.

Caution: Removal of the oil level control plug when the transmission fluid is hot may cause injury if fluid drains from the oil level control plug hole.

  1. The transaxle temperature should be above 40° C (104° F).
  2. Raise the vehicle and make certain it is level (do not raise just the front of the vehicle).
  3. Apply the brakes, move the shifter through all of the ranges (engine running) then return the shifter to the park position.
  4. Remove the oil level control plug.

If fluid does not drip from the oil level control plug hole, the fluid level is low. Add fluid through the vent cap as necessary.

Fluid level requirements after service:

  • Bottom pan removed………..7 liters (7.4 quarts)
  • New converter………………2.5 liters (2.6 quarts)
  • Complete rebuild……………10 liters (10.6 quarts)

This technical bulletin is furnished courtesy of the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association.  The technical bulletins are accessible by subscription only, visit their web site.

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I’ve called several transmission shops, and I get wide range of prices.

Using the phone to “shop” for transmission work is probably the worse thing you could do!

None of the shops can diagnose your problem without the vehicle, so how do they know what you need.  Anything they quote you is based on pure speculation.  This is not fair to you!

Add to that the fact that you can’t see their shop or their personnel.  This can tell you a lot about a shop and how professional it is.

What parts are contained in one quote may be extras another.  Can you tell the difference?  Would you know what parts they are talking about?  Would you know what parts they aren’t telling you about, but always include?

When your problem is diagnosed, you can tell if they have taken to necessary time and effort to accurately evaluate your transmission’s condition, if you are there.

So, how accurate is a phone quote?  You decide.

Also see FAQ – How to find a good repair facility.

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Why shouldn’t I replace my bad transmission with a “used” unit?

While that is an option, you might want to think twice.

If your transmission had been working well until now, there was no reason to think that it was going to have a problem until it occurred.  That’s the same thing that an automotive wrecking yard will think when they purchase a wrecked vehicle.  If the transmission was working well, the transmission would be placed in their inventory, and when someone needed a transmission, it would be sold as a serviceable unit.

If your vehicle was sold to a wrecking yard a month prior to the appearance of the current problem, the transmission would develop a problem about a month after it was installed.  Not only will this require additional labor to remove and install a replacement unit, the next unit may not last as well.

That’s assuming another unit for your vehicle is available.  These days, transmissions are more specific to a year, make, and model than they were a few years ago.

So, what to do.  The used transmission option is the cheaper assuming that it’s a serviceable unit.  But, if you are going to keep the vehicle for the next several years, a rebuilt unit should be more reliable and a better warranty.

The facility that installs the used unit will probably charge you each time a unit is installed.  In other words, if the first unit is no good, expect another installation charge for the next one.  That’s assuming the supplier has another unit.  You might ask about the supplier’s return policy.

Another reason to consider, is whether the “transmission problem” is actually in the transmission.  With today’s computer controlled units, there are numerous electronic sensors, external to the transmission that can be responsible for the current problem.  Also, another reason to have the symptoms diagnosed by a transmission professional.

I’ve had vehicles towed into our facility, and was told that the owner had replaced the transmission only to still have the same symptoms!

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The estimate includes “soft parts” but not “hard parts”. What’s the difference?

Soft parts include clutches, bands, overhauls kit, filter, internal sealing rings, bushings, external seals and gaskets.  These are the parts, along with a torque converter, that are always replaced during an overhaul of a transmission.

Upon internal inspection, some major component parts may also need to be replaced such as the pump, a clutch drum, or a planetary gear set.  There’s no way to know the condition of these “hard parts” before the unit is disassembled in order to include them in an estimate.

In the “old days” the cost of these parts was minimal due to the limited variety of transmissions and could be included in the estimate, however late model, computer controlled unit can have some expensive parts that may need to be replace to insure that the unit is fully repaired.

So, it is common for a major repair of a transmission to include a list of the commonly replaced parts, and remain open until an internal inspection of the unit can be made.

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Is this repair a guess or a fix?

When a repair is recommended and you don’t necessarily feel that the result will remedy the problem, ask the service writer if this is a guess or a fix.  If the answer is a guess, ask whose money are we guessing with, theirs or yours.

There are times that an “educated guess” is recommended to resolve a problem, and the results do not fix the problem.  This usually creates several emotional reactions such as:

  • I’ve been taken!
  • I just wasted my time and money.
  • These guys don’t have a clue.

This might have been avoided if this subject was covered before the repair was started.

As a consumer, you need to feel that you made the decision to proceed with a repair based on the knowledge that the recommended repair was appropriate and was going to remedy the problem.  If there was any doubt, you should have been told that this may not fix the problem.  Then you should evaluate the risk before you give the authorization to proceed.

Remember, it’s your money and time that is at risk.  You should feel comfortable that the recommended repair will provide the correct result.  If not, get a second opinion.

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What is your opinion about transmission additives?

For the most part, I’m not a fan of additives.  Most of them have compounds that voraciously attack the “rubber” seals throughout the transmission.  Usually, only a portion of the seals have hardened due to heat and age, but the additives will not be able to differentiate between the ones that are hard and the ones that aren’t.

Therefore, when the additives come in contact with the seals, they swell and soften to a point that they will not function.  The common experience after using the additive is a betterment initially, but after a few weeks, there is a major deterioration in the performance of the unit.  If the seals are damaged, there is no improvement, just the deterioration phase.

With external leaks, the additive will not cure gaps , such as loose pump bolts, worn bushings, cracks in the case, bad gaskets, etc.

I’ve seen more harm than good from the use of such products, and am a firm believer in periodic service as the best for the health of the unit.

The only one that we will use is called “Lubegard,” and is used primarily the cure minor valve body hang-ups and torque converter clutch chatter.

If all those additives for sale did as much as they promise, we would not be in business!

Also, usually the slickest thing about the additive is the person selling it!

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Can I replace my GM overdrive transmission in my 4×4 with a 3 speed unit?

Yes, it is possible, but not practical in my opinion.

The job is a major redesign of the drive train.

  • Both drivelines have to be modified
  • The crossmember support position has to be changed
  • There’s the cost of the 350/400 transmission to purchase for the swap
  • The filler tube/dipstick has to be changed
  • The adapter to the transfer unit for the 700 will not fit the 400, it will for the 350
  • The output shaft of the 400 will be expensive since 700 output shaft has a smaller diameter, and the 350 will need a different length shaft
  • An electrical kickdown switch has to be installed for the 400
  • The throttle valve cable will have to be replaced with a kickdown cable for the 350

Also the gear ratios are different for 1st, 2nd, and reverse, so the takeoff will be less efficient.

350 / 400 700
1st gear 2.48 : 1 3.06 : 1
2nd gear 1.48 : 1 1.62 : 1
3rd gear 1 : 1 1 : 1
Overdrive none 1 : 1.30
Reverse 1.93 : 1 2.29 : 1

 

With no overdrive, the engine rpm’s will be higher at highway speeds (same as 3rd gear with the 700) and the gas mileage will be less.

In late model, computer controlled applications, the electrical system will need to be modified since the normal feedback to the computer will not be available with the 350/400.

Other than that, the 350/400 are good units, but the 700 can be built to hold up.

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I found this piece in the transmission pan of my Ford. What is it, and where does it go?

Congratulations!  You are the first person to remove the transmission pan.

The plug is used to fill the filler tube hole in the transmission case before the unit is installed in the vehicle on the assembly line.  When the filler tube is inserted, the plug falls into the pan where it remains until the pan is removed.  It served its purpose and serves no useful function any more.

Many people have tried to find a place to install it or though it might be the cause of some abnormality, but alas, it’s has no current function.  You can toss it.

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What’s the difference between a transmission service and a flush?

A transmission service consists of a test drive, removing the transmission pan, draining the fluid (about half of the total), changing the filter and pan gasket, test driving again, and adjusting the linkage and bands if necessary.

The advantages: The filter is changed along with the fluid similar to an engine oil change and the vehicle is test driven and linkage and bands (if applicable) are adjusted. Usually, this service is done at a facility that has more knowledge about transmissions.

The disadvantage: Only a portion of the fluid is changed.

A transmission flush consists of attaching a machine to the transmission and removing virtually all of the fluid and replacing it with new fluid. Unless the pan is removed, the filter cannot be changed. At some facilities, the vehicle is not test driven or the linkage and bands adjusted.

The advantage: A more complete replacement of fluid is done.

The disadvantages: Most of the time this service is done at a facility that has less knowledge about transmissions and none of the additional services are performed.

Occasionally, abnormal operating symptoms arise because the valve body and/or other control items are contaminated by residual wear material that is disturbed and circulated during the flushing process.

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