Don’t Make This Mistake

Don’t do the following when you have a transmission problem…

Your initial reaction is to expect the worst and most expensive repair. Therefore, you start calling various transmission shops to get the “worst case price.” Starting in the 80′s, most transmissions are controlled by a computer which takes inputs from a dozen or more sensors before it gives the commands to control the transmission.

The first thing that needs to be done is to have the computer and its sensors scanned to determine that there are no control problems. The computer control system cannot be evaluated over the phone.

But, you want to check for the “worst possible case,” so you ask for the worst case price. After calling several shops, you get a variety of prices. You cleverly select the shop with the lowest price and call them back. They are glad to hear from you because, by calling them back, you have already given them the “ok” to overhaul your transmission whether it needs it or not. I know you told them to “check it out,” but they know they can easily go to the worst case repair because they already covered that and you selected them. In effect, you already gave them permission for an expensive repair before they ever got the vehicle.

All transmission overhauls are not the same. It is important to know what is included in a price. Is the shop reputable? Will they do do what they say? Will they use all of the parts that should be used with an overhaul? If you have a problem, will they take care of it with no hassle? We all know how it feels to be taken for a ride and sold something we don’t need or want. It’s not a very good feeling, and it doesn’t go away for a long time. Especially when 8 out of 10 jobs are not major.

A common sales tactic by some shops is to give you a low price because they have left out some of the vital components that are used in a quality overhaul. The first time you hear about them is after the RDI and the list of required parts are given. Now the price has suddenly risen and is more than you were prepared to pay. Now your transmission is in a thousand pieces and you have no real choice but to have the proceed with the overhaul. I have had it happen where someone has been given a much lower price than I have quoted, only the find out later that the final cost was the same or more than my quote, but they believed the lower quote, taken the vehicle to them, had the transmission removed and dis-assembled before learning that they were paying too much.

So, does their quote include a rebuilt torque converter or electrical components vital to the repair?

Quality transmission Service is a member of the BBB Auto Repair Advisory Committee. The owner, Bob Jones, is on the BBB Board of Directors. We were awarded the BBB Business Ethics Award in 2002. Over 90% of our business comes from word of mouth referrals. Historically, 4 out of 5 jobs we do are minor and the transmissions do not need to be overhauled.

Food for thought,

Bob Jones
Quality Transmission Service, Inc.

Posted in Transmission Articles | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

The RDI Trap

One of the most common ways for a transmission shop to sell major work is the use the RDI method (Remove Dismantle, and Inspect) of selling. Simply put, you are told that your transmission has an internal problem and the transmission needs to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled to determine the extent of damage and thus the cost of repair.

You are not given any indication of a cost of repair until the transmission has been torn down and is in a thousand pieces. What if the price is more than you are willing to spend on this repair? What if you would rather sell the vehicle rather than spend to repair cost? It’s a little late now because you will have to spend the quoted amount for the internal inspection if you decide not to have the repair.

If you want the transmission to be reinstalled in the vehicle, there is usually an additional expense and the transmission will probably not even work.

Transmission professionals are supposed to be experts in the diagnosis and repair of transmissions. Most shops have been in business for years and should be able to give you at least a range of costs that a major job will run before the transmission has been removed. After all, they have presumably worked on many transmissions.

Posted in Transmission Articles | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

What does the appearance of small bubbles on the dipstick mean?

Small bubbles in the fluid on the dipstick is a common occurrence.  It is just one of the signs that the transmission fluid needs to be changed, along with color and smell.  When the color is turning brown or the fluid smells burnt, have the fluid changed.

None of these indicators necessarily means that the transmission is in bad.  They are just indications that it’s time for a service.

Posted in FAQ | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

What does the term “Slipping” really mean?

Simply put, it means that as the vehicle attempts to move from a stop, the engine revs and the vehicle barely moves or doesn’t move at all.  OR, when the transmission shifts from one gear to the next, the engine revs during the shift rather than smoothly shifting to the next gear and the engine rpm dropping accordingly.

It doesn’t mean the upshifts are late and the engine revs higher than normal before the shift occurs.  This would be a transmission control problem, not a slipping problem.

Put another way, the clutches or bands are not engaging properly and they are not gripping as they should.  When this occurs, heat builds up radically and the friction surfaces are burnt along with the transmission fluid.  Therefore, burnt fluid (either dark brown or black in color) always accompanies slipping.  In the early stages of slipping, a burnt smell will be the first noticeable indication.

Slipping is an indication of a major internal problem that will require a major repair to resolve.

Posted in FAQ | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

I need to have work done on my transmission, but I want to know the “worst case” cost before I take my vehicle in, so I know I have enough money.

At first, this may sound like a reasonable request, but think about it.  By taking your vehicle into a repair facility after getting a “worst case” estimate, you have essentially given your approval for the worst case cost regardless of the real repair cost.  Do you really want to set yourself up like this?

Second, the worst case scenario is extremely rare.  Taken literally, this means that your transmission is so badly worn that it is not repairable and will have to be replaced by another unit.  And, if it’s computer controlled like most transmissions are these days, the computer will also have to be replaced.  How about additional sensors that feed the computer information?  How about the engine and transmission mounts?

To answer this question accurately, the answer would have to include everything that could go wrong with a transmission along with any and all of its control devices.

The real question to ask is, “What will be the cost to diagnose my transmission?”  If the answer is that it will have to be removed, disassembled, and inspected, then what is the anticipated cost range that I can expect?  Many people get in too deep by getting a cheap inspection quote and not knowing the real cost of repair until their transmission has been removed and disassembled.

Now it’s too late to decide that you don’t want to invest that much money!  The transmission is out and torn down.  To attempt to assemble and install it, and expect that it will perform as well as it did before the inspection is not reasonable.

After a transmission is diagnosed while it is still in the vehicle, a repair cost range can be given.  It is not accurate to the penny because an internal inspection has not been done, but at least you have a reasonable estimate to make your decision whether or not to proceed with the repair.

Posted in FAQ | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

I have a late model GM vehicle and the computer shows a P1870 code. What does this code mean?

Translated, the code means that the torque converter clutch is slipping.  Beginning in 1980, GM modified their torque converters from a simple fluid coupling device between the engine and transmission by adding a piston to create a mechanical connection to increase gas mileage.

When these transmissions evolved into computer controlled units, sensors monitor the slippage in the torque converter.  Theoretically, there should be zero slippage when the piston is applied, but in reality there is some allowable slippage that is acceptable.  In time, valve bodies that control the functions of the transmission developed a wear problem in the area that controls the application of the piston.  This wear allows the piston to slip beyond the allowable limits and sets the code in the computer.

If caught early enough, the valve body wear can be repaired and the transmission will work well.  However left unattended, the torque converter will have to be replaced along with the valve body repair.  (This will be evidenced by blue heat marks on the torque converter housing.)

While GM is familiar with this problem, don’t look for any recalls.

Posted in FAQ | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

I am considering the purchase of a used vehicle. How can I check the transmission?

I suggest you take the van to a local ATRA transmission shop where the transmission can be evaluated “hands-on” to determine the present condition of the transmission.  They should be able to point out any problems relative to the operation of the unit, and by removing the transmission pan, they can check for an accumulation of material that would indicate impending problems.  Also, they can get an indication by checking the pan gasket whether the transmission has had previous maintenance.

Some of the “clues” that a professional transmission technician can use to evaluate a transmission may not be obvious to the average person.  Also, a fresh pan gasket and new transmission fluid and filter may indicate an attempt to cover up signs of major wear in order to sell the vehicle.  Few buyers will go to the trouble and relative inexpensive cost to have the transmission itself evaluated by a transmission professional resulting in a major expense shortly after their purchase.

When it comes to the purchase of a used vehicle, it’s usually buyer beware.

Posted in FAQ | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

I did some work on my transmission and now it doesn’t perform normally. Can you tell me what I did wrong?

This is probably the toughest question to answer because if you knew what you did incorrectly, you wouldn’t need to ask.  These faulty results could be termed “unintended consequences.”  You were simply trying to repair, modify, or perform maintenance on your transmission but the results were not satisfactory.

I’m not trying to be curt, but there is a big difference between diagnosing a problem in a stock configuration and one that has been modified or repaired.  We have had vehicles in our shop with mistakes made during a repair that would not have been in our top 10 guesses.  As Murphy’s Law states:  “If it can be done wrong, it will be done wrong by someone.”

The best advice I can offer is to have a transmission professional review the work “hands-on” to determine what mistake/s were made.  This basically requires re-doing the work and inspecting every step until all the mistakes have been resolved.

Posted in FAQ | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

My older transmission takes a long time to engage forward and reverse when the weather is cold.

Since the symptom relates to both forward and reverse, I suspect that the problem is thick fluid when its cold.  When the vehicle sits overnight or a long time, fluid in the torque converter drains back into the pan area of the transmission.  When the engine is started, the fluid is picked up from the pan to refill the converter.  This process usually happens quickly and isn’t noticed.

When the weather is cold, the fluid is thicker and takes longer to fill the converter.  Any wear or pressure loss in the filter seals or the pump will cause the process to take longer.  The torque converter transfers the power from the engine into the transmission and works like a fluid coupling using transmission fluid.  So, until the torque converter is full, there will be no engagement of the transmission felt when it is placed into gear.

The first thing to check is the fluid level.  If the level is okay, have the transmission serviced to replace the filter and its seal/s.  But, if the filter is clogged with material, it could indicate severe wear inside of the transmission.

Posted in FAQ | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

My older Chevrolet pickup truck makes a thump on acceleration after stopping.

The noise you describe is probably coming from the front drive line yoke splines at the transmission output shaft.  It is very common that the wear in the splines causes “slop” that allows some “extra” rotation.  When braking the vehicle, the drive shaft “holds” the transmission shaft back.  When accelerating, the transmission output shaft “drives” the drive shaft in the opposite direction which allows the slop in the splines to rotate in the opposite direction and you hear this as a snap or bump.  You can experiment to confirm this by letting the vehicle coast to a stop and then accelerating.  There should be no noise.  Then brake to a stop, and then accelerate.  The noise should be present again.  The harder the braking, the more pronounced the noise will be.  The slop in differential gears will also contribute to this.

This is a very common in older/high mileage Chevrolet trucks, and my 1972 pickup has done this since 1976.  Check the universal joints to confirm that they are in good shape and the play in the differential to confirm that it is okay.  Otherwise, just keep driving and don’t worry about it.  Take comfort in the fact that you know the answer the one of the great mysteries of Chevrolet trucks.  Most owners wonder, but few know the reason.  BTW, the symptom in my truck has never gotten any worse, just very predictable.

Posted in FAQ | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment
  • Contact Information

    221 South McClintock Drive
    Tempe, AZ 85281-2211
    (480) 966-5800
    Monday–Friday: 8am–5pm
    info@quality-trans.com
  • Reviews

    I love these guys! I’ve used them in the past, and I recommend them to everyone. TOM LOPEZ See more reviews